![a1278 2011 ifixit a1278 2011 ifixit](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wBkAAOSwrklVQSYz/s-l300.jpg)
Die Anleitung von zzz funktioniert wunderbar! Leider habe ich, nachbem ich bereits erfolgreich getestet habe, die Lötponkte fixieren wollen und dabei versehentlich den Lötpunkt des roten Kabels abgerissen. Ich hab's versaut, aber gute Neuegkeiten für alle, die das gleiche Problem haben.
A1278 2011 ifixit how to#
You will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and it is not worth it over just doing it right, in the end it devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these pieces of junk. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be when people buy them from the store.
A1278 2011 ifixit full#
So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &^& the battery and die. Pin 3 is the actual PWM signal that is created by the SMC, courtesy of pullup resistor creating data line for fan control at R5661 only when laptop is in an S0 state from PP3V3_S0. Pin 1 is basic 5VDC which is only sent to the fan when the laptop is in an on, S0 state. R5665 is where fan speed gets sent to the SMC, R5660 is the pullup resistor creating the data line for the fan/smc communication when the laptop is in an S0 state, on pin 2. I would suggest buying a dead battery so you have jumper wire to run, just cut up the A1278 battery wire, and use individual strands inside each wire as your jumpers. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!! USB ports supply power even in an or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Let's go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line.
![a1278 2011 ifixit a1278 2011 ifixit](https://img.joomcdn.net/7e964ce807bf920224de3787ffc37f1b944bdc50_original.jpeg)
Maybe the soldering point of the speedometer is still ok. I also don't know, if I only can use + and Ground from the USB-Port. I think, this should work, but I don't know the Pinouts of the FAN. Now I'm considering about soldering the FAN on an USB-Port. Two soldering points are gone, so I cannot solder the connector again.
A1278 2011 ifixit pro#
Trying to change the CPU FAN on my MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 I broke the connector on the logicboard. Da der Lüfter 5V und 1,7W benötigt, sollte ein USB-Anschluss funktionieren, oder? Wenn die Richtigen Lotpunkte noch vorhanden sind, könnte ich doch sogar das Tachosignal abgreifen, damit der Lüfter nicht permanent vollgas gibt? Nun überlege ich den Lüfter an einen USB-Anschluss anzulöen, aber ich kenne die PIN-Belegung des Lüfters leider nicht. Daher kann der Anschluss nun nicht mehr angelötet werden (ich habe es versucht, hält nicht). Als ich an meinem MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 den Lüfter tauschen wollte, ist der Stecker auf dem Logicboard abrissen und mit dem Anschluss auch 2 Lötpunkte.